I saw a few waves come up just before our heat right near the pier. So I figured if I'm going to lose, I'm going to sit right there. Then I figured either go big, or go home. |
If you see the current, you can follow it out and you won't even get your hair wet. It sucks you right out to see and you are right in the line-up. |
It was insane. To have some great local surfers out there with you made it even better. |