It all came down to one wave. There's not much you can do when the luck doesn't go your way. |
It's a pretty bizarre scene here with a freeway built right over the sand. I spun out looking back in from the line-up. The Japanese people are really cool too. They run around all day snapping off photos. They love surfing and they love us coming here. |
It's all a little bit disappointing at the moment, |
The waves had a bit of kick out there and I had fun despite not getting in a warm-up surf, |