I'm just recording a culture, ... It's more sharing the experience. |
It puts you in a place, ... You might call it the most religious experience you could ever have. You're out there with God. |
It's a feeling that's there's nothing else like in the world, ... It's magic. |
It's sort of like a tribe, a group of friends you see all the time. You travel with them, you break bread with them, ... You're part of a family in a sense. That's what surfing is or it used to be. It's become a bigger family now that everybody is so interested. |